Twenty-first century fashion

Fashion has always reflected a certain era. What does fashion reflect in the twenty-first century?

"The power of the customer. They are extremely important in contemporary fashion. Now they dictate what they want and how they want it. It's time for the new establishment. People want to consume "new". The industry followed it and reviewed the concept of mass production. For example, in one single collection, we can handle over 100 prints using digital printing, naturally making each piece more exclusive, which would have been financially impractical in the past. Although we don't necessarily agree with it, celebrity endorsement has also certainly become an important PR tool for established fashion houses, as well as young designers." Basso & Brooke

"Unfortunately, it has become faster and faster and louder and louder. In my view, less time is spent on the craft and on making beautiful things. It is all about who has the biggest marketing budget, who puts on the craziest show. To me, all of this is less about beauty; it is less about the wearer. It is about egos and big business, and that is a worrying trend. On the other hand, fashion has gotten a much broader audience, meaning that people in general care more about an important part of life. Clothes and other fashion accessories have an influence on how your feel and how you are percieved. More accessibilty in that respect is a good thing. Also, it seems that at least the developed markets are less ruled by labels and big brands. People are getting more individual; they better understand what design and good quality is about and are less directed by marketing ploys and insecurity. That is a good trend, and i hope it continues. Of course, there is also a strong experimental side to fashion in the twenty-first century, and that is needed to advance things. However, i feel there is a general focus back onto what really matters to people when they choose their fashion. In my view, while interesting to watch, the space age/ experimental lady that is currently being portrayed is going to be a very lonely lady. I hope that fun, wildness and beauty win in the twenty-first century - a renaissance of style and beauty." Alice Temperley

"Today there is a kind of openness. It's very visible, and maybe ut's overexposed-me included-but that's funny, too, isn't it? It's funny, because i survived so many people. It's a very strange feeling. But i have no sense of time at all. I'm floating in the air of no time." Karl Lagerfeld

Laura Eceiza, in Atlas of Fashion Designers (if you do not own this book it is a MUST-HAVE) poses the same question to over sixty designers from around the globe: what they feel 21st century fashion reflects. Unknown to them, their answers trend an uncomfortable awareness of the awkward relationship they have with their customer and hint to a general disparagement in regards to the direction the industry is moving in. With rumors surrounding Alexander McQueen's death of Prada asking for huge sums of money back from the designer, one wonders whether the industry, as it stands, is a healthy one for any designer to grow or succeed...